The Kindness of Strangers

I must confess: I've been going mildly squirelly at the hospital here. Despite the best efforts of the very kind residents, I understand precious little of the frenzied patient-doctor exchanges (in Turkish). Even if I were to understand perfectly, there would be very little educational value in whole mornings full of watching chemo prescription refills. Today I got to have a bit of a change of scenery when I went on a guided 'tour' of the bone marrow transplant facility at Gazi.

I'm trying to keep my wits about me, though. It helps for me to refocus on the positive aspects of my adventures here. Today I had a really nice surprise at the Internet cafe, of all places. As I was trying to get the mic and headset set up, the friendly cafe worker (who speaks zero English) brought another employee for back-up while they frantically waved a 20 lira bill in my face (value of about 15 dollars). They returned with a written message (from some secret english translator looming in the dark recesses of the cafe) explaining that the 20 YTL had fallen out of my pocket last week and they'd kept it for me. How adorable! I'd probably have been even more shocked, but this is the perfect example of just how kind strangers have been to me these last few weeks. I'd like to share with you a few other such examples:

- Multiple waiters in İstanbul, realizing that Jane and I were alone and trying desperately to use Turkish as best we could, brought us assorted cups of tea 'on the house';

- As I tried to figure out the ferry station to travel to Haydarpaşa station in İstanbul, a kind employee, realizing my confusion and disorientation, came to check on me repeatedly as I waited for my ferry to indicate when the proper boat had arrived;

- On the (very long and very hot) train ride between İstanbul and Ankara, a kind woman insisted that I share some of her picnic lunch. A nearby passenger (who had initially been watching me with the utmost suspicion) soon struck up a 'conversation' with me, and enthusiastically shared her ice-cold water and baby wipes to help beat the heat;

- When an older man noticed that I was hesitant to cross the road in front of my Ankara hotel (6 lanes of traffic and absolutely insane drivers, but no designated crosswalks), he gestured to me to come with him and he helped me to time my crossing just right;

- A young Turkish couple befriended me at - of all places - the Canada Day party at the Canadian Embassy, and have since invited me to their home for an evening;

- A patient at the hospital (with whom I've only been able to exchange smiles, 'hello's and 'goodbye's) gave me some gifts yesterday: some leblebi (toasted chickpeas) and rainbow-coloured toe socks

This is a country full of contradictions and chaos. But despite the perpetual madness, I can always rely on people to be exceptionally warm and kind to me.